Zits, pimples, pustules, blemishes.

Whatever their name — we hate them. In this age of high stress, pollution + junk food diets, acne is widespread. For some people, acne is a minor annoyance, for the less lucky, it lowers self image + self-esteem.These people are prime victims for the false promise of beautiful skin from makers of deep pore cleansers + oil absorbing creams.

I was one of these people.

“I couldn’t even look people in the eye,” a friend once told me.

“I feel people talking to my blemishes when they are talking to me”, another friend shares.

Usually, acne begins as a minor frustration caused by hormones, bad products/regimes or stress. It is when the obsession over break outs + we start to pick + squeeze that the problem is made much worse + much deeper.

What is Acne?

In short, a break out is a clogged pore which has become infected. It is a comedone which becomes a pustule due to many factors discussed below. This is why the minimization of blackheads decreases acne.

Causes of Acne

1.Clogged pores due to product + make-up

As explained previously, synthetic products have pore clogging ingredients. This causes a comedone which is a component of a break out. Often, acne sufferers will be dependant on cover up cosmetics to hide their blemishes, only worsening the problem. Even if good skincare is used, the clogging effect of commercial make-up lines prevents the skin from fully clearing up. A pressed powder natural mineral make up is beneficial for a good cover-up without clogging.

A quick + relaxing way to unclog pores + get a start on great skin is a Pure + simple Facial Treatment. The Urban Renewal Facial is specifically designed to clean up stressed out city skin with enlarged pores.

2. Excess oil

Excess oil is the commonly blamed culprit of acne prone skin. It is generally believed if the skin is stripped of its oils, it will help prevent + clear up blemishes. This is not true. While excessively oily skin has a propensity to break out as pores are more easily clogged etc, oily skin can the most beautiful + healthy of skin types if properly maintained. Oily skin does not need to use oil control products despite popular belief. This may actually induce acne by dehydrating skin, which more often than not results in clogged pores. Oily skin must make sure hydration of the skin is maintained so that oils do not dry +/or solidify in the pores before flowing onto the surface of the skin to keep it dewy.

A great way to reduce oil production is to use a high quality oil blend. The body will produce less oil when the body no longer detects a need for it. Some excellent + proven oil moisturizers are Dr. Hauschka Normalizing Day Oil, Jurlique Daycare Face Oil+ Pure + simple Pure Skin Face Oil.

3. Dehydration

Dehydration is actually the most common cause of acne in my experience. Because oils will harden in a dry environment, clogged pores will result. Often people break out during the seasonal change to winter or if moving to a drier environment. Most people believe it’s the humid environment that would cause breakouts but this is a less common case. While the sun may be a factor, it is usually the absence of moisture which causes acne. Internal dryness (the need for more water in the body +/or more oils to retain the water) is one cause. But aiding dehydration topically is just as important if not more. We cannot control how our body disperses the water we ingest, or which areas are being hydrated, so using products which will give us more moisture is the most direct way to fight dehydration. Oil based products will also help seal in water. Cigarette smoking, caffeine + alcohol are dehydrating as well as taxing to the liver.

One of the best ways to hydrate the face is Collagen. Hydrating Serums like the Algae Serum + Vitamin Enzyme Serum. Act as the hydrating base under a moisturizer in cold dry weather + can be used a light moisturizer for oilier skin types in summer.

4. Sun

Sun exposure can cause acne as it stimulates the sebaceous glands. It can also cause eurythema (burning) which weakens the skin by traumatizing it + acne results from the reduction in the skin’s immunity.

Some great ways to protect skin+ cover up blemishes + large pores is the Pure + simple natural mineral make-up.

If you don’t want make up then a natural sunscreen will be a great suggestion. Choose from the titanium based products of Lavera + Dr. Hauschka Sunscreens from Germany or the Zinc based UV Naturals from Australia.

5. Toxins and Liver Overload

Chronic acne is almost always an indication there is an imbalance within. This is the root of the problem, + even the purest products cannot heal this. The skin is the largest organ of detoxification. Whatever toxins not eliminated through the intestines + digestive tract will come out through the skin. This is why elimination is so important.

The liver specifically is the organ which is most related to acne. The liver has many important functions. But one of them is filtration. The liver is the filtration centre of the body. It is like a wet sponge. If it is overloaded, it will not absorb or filter anymore, + the excess toxins will spill into other areas, + most likely be purged through the skin as acne.

This is why sleep is important as the liver detoxifies between the hours of 1am + 3am, so sleep is important to help regenerate the liver. Also, the liver governs a lot of hormone filtration + is closely related to the emotion of anger. Those with a taxed liver will be quick to anger. Anger is aggravated by the Pitta Dosha. Most acne is believed to be caused by the heat of Pitta with the accumulating of toxins of Kapha. Natural Ayurvedic supplements tend to Detox without the aggressiveness of laxatives while balancing the digestive system like Triphala or Triphala Guggulu, Neem + Para Cleanse.

6. Hormones

Hormones play a huge part into break outs. Many women get breakouts around their menstruation period. This because it is a time of increased Candida + yeast in the body.

Others start break outs when coming off the birth control pill. The body is balancing itself out + purging toxins. When going through any hormonal changes, the body is out of balance + may result in pimples. This is due to excessive heat (in an Ayurvedic sense) within the body, purging of toxins, + lowered immune systems. Dr Leung, a Doctor of Chinese Medicine, has a more specific theory about hormonal changes + acne. Leung says that when the body goes through hormonal changes it uses up Panthothenic Acid, a Vitamin B. This same vitamin metabolizes fat. If this vitamin is used up, fat is not metabolized in the body + excess oil in the skin is a result. Taking high doses of Panthothenic Acid supplements are Leung’s solution.

Depletion of the adrenals (+ over production of adrenaline) + the production of testosterone are other hormones which play a role in acne. For a natural herbal supplement for boosting adrenal function, I am a great believer in Banyan Botanicals’ Organic Ayurvedic remedies, like Ashwaganda + Stress Ease.

7. Stress

Stress is a killer that can also be murder on the skin. Stress also utilizes the B vitamins up + is therefore related to Leung’s belief on acne.

It taxes the whole body, lowering its entire immune system, leaving it defenseless to bacteria + infection + will not be able to detoxify or regenerate as easily. If the body is under stress it will also dehydrate. The adrenals are located on top of the kidneys. The kidney control when we retain + release water from the body. When you are under stress, adrenaline is produced to help sustain the body while it is in danger (fight or flight mode). Overactive adrenals will stimulate the kidneys to release water.

Undue stress contributes to acne as adrenaline production stimulates androgen production, the hormone that gives men more oilier skin than women. If the body needs adrenaline it will stop producing other hormones like Progesterone. A lack of Progesterone may prevent you from menstruating + exhibit male hair growth patterns. So, hormonal system imbalances cause acne.

Some remedies to support the adrenals + female hormones are Banyan Botanicals’ Stress Ease + Women Support.

What Your Blemishes Are Telling You

Body + skin is being taxed. Internally or externally the skin is not healthy enough to fight off bacteria on its surface.

But areas affected + the type of acne, it will indicate what is going on inside. It can be an early warning sign. Often, this is a blessing in disguise, a superficial way to display an imbalance, yet we rarely see acne as anything positive.

Types of Acne

Milia - Milia are small pimples, usually related to clogged pores. Milia is usually governed by Pitta as these blemishes are related to heat. All inflammation + infection is related to “heat”. Balancing Pitta is important. This acne is also very related to stress. Hydration is also important to prevent clogging pores as well as using pure products.

White heads - White heads are pimples with a white puss filled tip. White heads need anti bacterial treatment for prevention. Extracting them when they are ready is the fastest way to heal them. But if this is not possible to be done by a professional, a drying clay or mud spot treatment is excellent. This helps draw out the blemish + dry it out.

Cystic Acne - Also known as blind pimples. Cystic acne is large pimples with no white head. They often hurt or are tender. Cystic acne must be removed by pricking them with a needle + extracting the fluid. This acne scars most easily. Arnica help drain fluid, so applying arnica cream or water is very effective. But unlike most acne, cystic acne is governed by Kapha. Kapha is water, Kapha is holding + retention. This is fluid retention. Balancing Kapha is important. Also an antibacterial is important. Because cystic acne is infection which has affected the dermis layer (the acne is much deeper), products + treatments which work on the dermis layer is important. Some say that severe cases of cystic acne need antibiotics to kill bacteria + infection in the dermis layer. Each case is individual, in my opinion, the avoidance of internal medication is always the best option.

Parts of The Face + What is Says

Do you ever wonder why acne appears on certain parts of your face? Do you find that you get a blemish in the chin areas just before you menstruate?

Many people believe that acne is product related. But why is it not equally dispersed all over the face?

When Acne is isolated to areas it can help you understand your body better by indicating an internal problem. If you refer to the face map, you will see that where blemishes appear corresponds to the internal. For instance, pimples between the eyebrows indicate an overloaded liver. Smokers or those with allergies breakout in the cheek area because the upper cheek corresponds to the lungs. People who quit smoking also may start to break out in the lower cheeks as toxins are purging from the body.

The acne on the chin can indicate a hormonal imbalance. Many of my clients have breakouts on their chin when they go off the birth control pill.

The Forehead is gastro-intestinal system, that is affected by the overactive mind. While the jaw line refers to the adrenals + hormones (adrenaline is a hormone + the hormonal system is holistic as they will each affect one another).

In Ayurveda, Vata governs the top area of the face, Pitta governs the middle (eyes to upper lip) + Kapha is the lower part of the face. This means that where there is acne, one must have an imbalance with that Dosha.

Traditional Solutions + Why They Don’t Work

Many frustrated teenagers seek the advice of dermatologists at the first signs of pimples. The popular solution from dermatologist is to dry the skin with salicylic acid + benzene peroxide, or peel with harsh Retinol A creams. But this only worsens the problem as it imbalances + depletes our skin, causing an even oilier skin with even more blemishes. This is because the body is always trying to balance + regenerate itself. If it is stripped, it will compensate by pouring out more sebum (oil), + the drier the skins surface is, the thicker the sebum will be. The stripping will also deplete the skin + leave it more susceptible to infection + therefore acne.

When the drying out proves unsuccessful, the next step is then tampering with the internal system of digestion + reproduction with antibiotics, birth control pills + the Retinoid, Acutane.

I personally took antibiotics. While my acne cleared up, my skin looked blotchy, dry, flaky + very sensitive. I also felt sick + nauseous. When I stopped my face was the worst it had ever been. Many of my worse acne clients have come to us after stopping the birth control pill, as these chemical drugs are only a short term solution with worse after effects.

Birth control pills are prescribed to teens as young as fourteen. I believe this cure to be drastic + extreme. The artificial altering of hormone levels for blemishes is harmful to the skin, but more importantly, your overall health.

But while drugs may be a solution, it has huge implications for our health. Most adult acne is liver related + drugs like tetracycline fry out our internal organs + make us photosensitive. Ironically, I have already stressed that causes of acne include dehydration + sun. So, in any acne case, a program must be carefully chosen to suits individual needs, but also consider long-term health.

Acutane

The most aggressive internal method is Acutane, which I found was more popular amongst males. Acutane has been linked with more than 1,300 psychiatric side effects including severe depression + the cause of more than 66 cases of suicide. “I wanted to die.” My friend, Jaime says. “Skin to die for? – just what a frustrated teenager needs.”

Acutane dries out our sebaceous glands but also indiscriminately dries out other parts of our body including mucous membrane, skin, vaginal + internal organs. Other side effects include inflammation of the liver, gene damage + constipation. These effects can be long lasting but some users are disappointed as their acne returns.

A More Natural Answer

Acne: Not a war

Most people view acne as a war to fight. You see a pimple on your face + you want to bomb it off your face, dry it out + destroy the problem! This is a view that acne is something outside yourself.

After years of thinking + behaving this way, I realized you must heal your skin, not dry, damage + deplete it. It is only then will the skin be healthy enough to fight off bacteria + infection (acne). Healing the skin as opposed to being in battle with it.

I always bring about the example of chronic bronchitis again + again.

Pretend you go to the doctor with bronchitis + they give you antibiotics as a cure. This takes care of the problem short term. But the antibiotics lower your immune system, so you are more vulnerable to illness. So you contract bronchitis again. An even more powerful dosage of anti-biotic is prescribed. The pattern is repeated + the body becomes weaker + weaker + even immune to the medication. Whereas if our immune systems were healed + boosted, we would be less likely to get sick. This is the same approach many dermatologists have for acne. The skin is dried + dried out with creams, dry ice, acids peels etc. then the internal body is dried out with acne pills. Remember that hydration is the first line of defense. This rarely cures acne in the long term. It usually leaves the skin damaged, scarred + totally imbalanced. Sometimes the least invasive treatments are the most effective.

Simple Rules for Banishing Blemished Skin

1. Use only natural skincare products. Do not clog pores with petroleum products as they sit on the skin’s surface + clog pores. Most of us acne sufferers do not need harsh drying cleansers + creams. The best skincare routine includes chemical-free make-up, gentle cleansers + healing moisturizers.

2. Do not be afraid of oil. The absence of oil on the surface of the skin promotes the body to produce oil to compensate. Your body is always trying to balance itself + not using a moisturizer in our cold, dry environment can create an even bigger oil problem.

3. Stress causes acne. Some theories say stress uses up vitamin B5 (the same vitamin needed to metabolize fat) this causes the unmetabolized fat to be excreted through the pores + cause acne (Dr Leung). Some say that dehydration causes acne + therefore stress causes acne because stress dehydrates the body. Others say stress lowers the immune system, making the body more vulnerable to acne.

4. Good skin is based on wellness. Acne solution first should not be bad for the body as a whole. If skin looks unattractive, there are often underlying health issues to address. Often a weak liver causes acne as it prevents toxin from being cleansed + the body must find another avenue to eliminate waste: the skin. Ironically Acutane taxes the liver.

5. Lifestyle + diet. Eat lots of fresh vegetables + drink water. Strive for two liters per day. This cleanses your system + hydrates your cells. As I became more hydrated, not only did my skin clear up, but also it became more moist, less sensitive + less irritated. DETOX YOUR LIVER !